OUT NOW! April Wine & Spirits: 2014 Saveria SCM Pinot Noir, rated one of the Year's Best U.S. Pinot Noirs!

April 3, 2017

Wine & Spirits April 2017

96/ Tessier

2014 Santa Cruz Mountains Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir

Tasted blind, this brought back memories of the 2014 Lioco Saveria (W&S 10/16):  a sense of foggy delicacy, the scent you might find while hiking in coastal California just as the sun rises.  That precise parallel in the wines is a rare experience in California, where winemaking variables often result in radically different takes on the same vineyard.  Saveria – a sandy, fog-cooled site on the Pacific side of the Santa Cruz Mountains, just north of Monterey Bay – may have a vineyard expression that overrides winemaking.  Or maybe Lioco’s John Raytek and Tessier’s Kristie Tacey made similar decisions in the 2014 vintage.  In any case, what you get is a powerful argument that site matters here.  This is diaphanous and exhilarating; it’s intense, but the flavors settle and cohere rather than explode:  strawberry, raspberry, leafy complexity and the earthy tang of rooibos tea all come together in a numinous coastal pinot noir.  (140 cases) Tessier Winery, Healdsburg, CA

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